Low-cost production and the use of chemicals in clothing manufacturing have provoked public discussion. This article explains the ways Kesko monitors the product safety and quality of its grocery trade’s own brand clothes and textiles.
Before Kesko’s own brand products - such as mywear clothes or myhome sheets - are approved for sale, they must meet strict quality and safety requirements and pass numerous tests.
“The foundation for product quality and safety is created already in the product development phase. Together with our sourcing team, we set quality requirements for potential products based on legislation and the technical features of the product. For example, we may require an approved quality or product safety certificate, or that a certain chemical is completely forbidden,” says Kesko’s Quality and Product Development Manager Timo Kivi.
Kesko has its own ISO 17025 accredited laboratory (T251) in Kalasatama, Helsinki.
“In our own laboratory, we test, for example, the colour fastness and washability of clothes and the safety of cords in children’s clothing. We make continuously risk assessments and follow customer feedback and, if necessary, take certain products for more detailed evaluation. If a substantial quality or safety issue is found in our own brand assortment, we coordinate and inform about the product recall in our stores,” says Kivi.
Strict limits for harmful chemicals
In sourcing mywear clothes and myhome products, Kesko works closely with Swedish ICA. In Asia, Kesko’s and ICA’s joint sustainability team is in charge of ensuring quality and product safety of products.
“Harmful chemical contents are tested in third-party accredited laboratories. We strive to ensure through tests that manufacturers comply with strict limits, for example, regarding phthalates and formaldehyde,” says Kivi.
The EU REACH regulation restricts, for example, the use of phthalates, formaldehyde, nickel, chromium, and dyes in product manufacturing. In the textile sector, the most problematic chemicals include phthalates, some of which may be harmful to reproductive health. Phthalates are used to soften plastics, for example, in plastic buttons and prints on clothes, as well as in raincoats and rubber boots.
Kesko complies with the EU chemical legislation and requires the same from its suppliers. Kesko also has its own chemical guideline, which sets stricter maximum limits for some chemicals than legislation.
Why are chemicals used in clothing manufacturing?
“Chemicals are used to dye clothes, prevent mold and wrinkling, remove odors, and make outwear water-repellent. The importer is responsible for ensuring that only chemicals permitted in the EU are used in production and that the set limits are not exceeded,” says Kivi.
What a consumer who is concerned about chemicals can do to ensure the product contains as few chemicals as possible?
“Basically, the consumer can trust that the Finnish retail sector complies with laws and ensures product safety. Certain environmental labels or standards - such as Oeko-Tex, EU Ecolabel, and the Nordic Swan label - on textile products indicate that the products have been tested and the use of chemicals in their production has been restricted, often more strictly than according to legislation. When making purchasing decisions, it’s good to note that products ordered from outside the EU via online stores may not meet EU safety requirements,” Kivi reminds.
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